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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 8:41 am 
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Dan, went over to your house this weekend and saw your PGSG Standard (It is a Standard right?). I was really impressed. Very nice job overall and with the body work man! I am really impressed with the work and really it is the kind of work I think most guys are interested in, that is because it is not a $30k off body full restoration. It's the kind of work that I respect and appreciate. It is a "Driver Restoration" that YOU did and I'm sure all of it at home in the driveway. So it is what I'm most interested in, since I don't have 30k laying around.

The samba thread
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... 1&start=80

1. I was wondering if you had more sequential pics that show the condition before and after each time you worked on the body and paint. I know there was a definite progression and process you used to achieve that "Patina-ed look". I know there are several pics that are included in the TS thread but I was just wondering if you have documented it more sequentially? On Saturday I watched and listened as you briefly explained to Rob how you did it, but was a little unclear on some steps. It looks like now I will be needing to do this earlier than I anticipated. Why?

2. I'm doing a restoration on the window frames and rubber for doors on my Panel. I removed the window frames this weekend and stripped the top of the doors to get down to OG paint, and found bondo, insane grinder action from the numb skull PO and will need to restore the paint at the top of the door because of the PO. There are also other areas that I will be doing some welding work and that will need some OG paint restoration to retain the Patina look....

Could you please help me figure out where to start?

I have ordered the Window Rubber from WW, so it will be coming. I know in Rob's thread you talked about a place in Miramar to get the paint. I picked up a cheapy HPLV (Harbor Frieght \:D/ \:D/ \:D/ )this weekend and plan on using it to "shoot and blend" the restored areas....BUT.... I need to figure out the paint situation and get the window frames and doors prepped...

HELP... [-o<


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:43 am 
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BTW...DAN...I'm actually making my way thru your TS thread....actually there are alot of pics, initially i just scrolled through the last page then realized there were a bunch of pages...my bad....going back thru it now....start to finish...


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:22 am 
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tnc19 wrote:
BTW...DAN...I'm actually making my way thru your TS thread....actually there are alot of pics, initially i just scrolled through the last page then realized there were a bunch of pages...my bad....going back thru it now....start to finish...


Here goes:
Step 1) Strip your gas flap and hopefully find good OG paint underneath the respray. Try using chemical strippers like you get at Lowes. If it is too aggressive use Easy Off. Sometimes a combination works best. On the '67 I got, I used stripper on the respray which took it down to primer and then used Easy Off to remove the primer to expose the OG paint. Don't experiment with the gas flap. Wait to do that until you have the technique wired down because...
2)...take the cleaned up flap to Tri-City paints in Miramar and the paint code. Spend the extra $25 to have them color match the flap.
3) To blend yo have to wet sand the surrounding paint with 1000 grit wet to scuff it up. You then shoot the new paint overlapping the old scuffed paint. After it dries you sand the whole area with 1000 grit, then 1500 then 2000 then buff. Do not get too aggressive with the old paint as you can burn through it easily. It should then blend in nicely. If the new paint is too shiney then you can dull it down by scuffing it with 2000 or even 1500.


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:25 am 
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WOW DAN....I a lame-o...I should have read the TS thread first...almost half way thru now.... very helpful...(Got the paint place Tricity Paint)...but I will need a tutorial on the awesome job you did on the paint blending...if you haven't seen Dan's "blend".....it's off the chain!!!


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:45 am 
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Thanks Dan...thats what I needed...I will finish reading and then get back....but the blow by blow account is what I kind of needed to get started...thanks man....

I will get on that paint first...


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:12 pm 
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Dan...over on the TS in your thread you mentioned that this is what materials you used...

I had two quarts mixed. They charged me $20/can for the paint matching plus the cost of the paint, plus hardener and reducer, one quart of high build primer, one quart of kitty hair, two Previas and came out to $220. I figure the paint was probably $140. I used Previa paint sprayers so far. I will use my gun on some larger areas, like the nose and some stuff on the roof.

1. the paint
2. hardener
3. reducer
4. high build primer
5. kitty hair (ummmm....dictionary.com doesn't help me here...what is this?)
6. Previa paint sprayers (not sure what this is...a brand? a type? rattle can?)

Can anyone else weigh in on materials needed?
Tri-city? In Miramar off Camino Santa Fe....is there another Paint supplier anyone could/would recommend?

Thanks Dan for the help....


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Unread postPosted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:12 pm 
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tnc19 wrote:
Dan...over on the TS in your thread you mentioned that this is what materials you used...

I had two quarts mixed. They charged me $20/can for the paint matching plus the cost of the paint, plus hardener and reducer, one quart of high build primer, one quart of kitty hair, two Previas and came out to $220. I figure the paint was probably $140. I used Previa paint sprayers so far. I will use my gun on some larger areas, like the nose and some stuff on the roof.

1. the paint
2. hardener
3. reducer
4. high build primer
5. kitty hair (ummmm....dictionary.com doesn't help me here...what is this?)
6. Previa paint sprayers (not sure what this is...a brand? a type? rattle can?)

Can anyone else weigh in on materials needed?
Tri-city? In Miramar off Camino Santa Fe....is there another Paint supplier anyone could/would recommend?

Thanks Dan for the help....


Kitty hair is bondo with fiberglass fibers in it to make it stronger. It is good for covering areas where the metal is pitted to reinforce it. You will need regular filler to go over it to create a smooth surface.
Don't skimp on materials it will come back to haunt you. The previas are Ok to use. If you have a compressor get a cheap touch up gun from Lowes for $30 or so, works better and is more cost efficient.


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Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:38 am 
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Dan...
So I took off the gas tank lid...stripped it down past the rattle can primer, then the rattle can black, to what I thought was the oxidized and faded OG gray....BUT NOOOOOO!!!! I then took off the lock to reveal the OG Gray....it didn't match the faded gray...i then had to strip the faded tannish color along with a primer under that....

4 coats and 5 on the trim to get to OG Gray....wow....

Is it worth the time and effort?

The only reason why this is even a thought or concern is because I am restoring the window frame rubber, all new from WW.I think now what I will end up doing is just cleaning the window frames, reshooting them with OG L345 Grey, then not installing the door rubber or the window frame seal until I know exactly what I'm going to do with the paint...

I had to do something with the windows, because the passenger side had no rubber at all....not a thing, and the windows just clanked around inside....not cool!

Stripping 4 coats of paint, and then blending the paint to achieve an OG "look" is alot of work....not to mention a bit of money on the cost to strip... :-k :-k :-k ...hmmm?

Oh yeah...i have some welding to do too? :lol: :lol: ...Going to have think this one out...


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Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:12 am 
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tnc19 wrote:
Dan...
So I took off the gas tank lid...stripped it down past the rattle can primer, then the rattle can black, to what I thought was the oxidized and faded OG gray....BUT NOOOOOO!!!! I then took off the lock to reveal the OG Gray....it didn't match the faded gray...i then had to strip the faded tannish color along with a primer under that....

4 coats and 5 on the trim to get to OG Gray....wow....

Is it worth the time and effort?

The only reason why this is even a thought or concern is because I am restoring the window frame rubber, all new from WW.I think now what I will end up doing is just cleaning the window frames, reshooting them with OG L345 Grey, then not installing the door rubber or the window frame seal until I know exactly what I'm going to do with the paint...

I had to do something with the windows, because the passenger side had no rubber at all....not a thing, and the windows just clanked around inside....not cool!

Stripping 4 coats of paint, and then blending the paint to achieve an OG "look" is alot of work....not to mention a bit of money on the cost to strip... :-k :-k :-k ...hmmm?

Oh yeah...i have some welding to do too? :lol: :lol: ...Going to have think this one out...


Sounds like you may not even have any OG paint under all the resprays. It is easier really to just do the bodywork and have it painted.


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Unread postPosted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 10:45 am 
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Dan wrote:
tnc19 wrote:
Dan...
So I took off the gas tank lid...stripped it down past the rattle can primer, then the rattle can black, to what I thought was the oxidized and faded OG gray....BUT NOOOOOO!!!! I then took off the lock to reveal the OG Gray....it didn't match the faded gray...i then had to strip the faded tannish color along with a primer under that....

4 coats and 5 on the trim to get to OG Gray....wow....

Is it worth the time and effort?

The only reason why this is even a thought or concern is because I am restoring the window frame rubber, all new from WW.I think now what I will end up doing is just cleaning the window frames, reshooting them with OG L345 Grey, then not installing the door rubber or the window frame seal until I know exactly what I'm going to do with the paint...

I had to do something with the windows, because the passenger side had no rubber at all....not a thing, and the windows just clanked around inside....not cool!

Stripping 4 coats of paint, and then blending the paint to achieve an OG "look" is alot of work....not to mention a bit of money on the cost to strip... :-k :-k :-k ...hmmm?

Oh yeah...i have some welding to do too? :lol: :lol: ...Going to have think this one out...


Sounds like you may not even have any OG paint under all the resprays. It is easier really to just do the bodywork and have it painted.


There is some OG paint under there, its not very thick, and has been ground....yes....randomly ground down. One of the genius POs took a ginder/sander to it randomly some places it is down to the metal, others there are bondo patches to iron out the so called bumps...so there is quite a bit og OG paint (I SUSPECT) however there is also quite a bit of hacks, random idiotic grinding and sanding spots....all under 4 layers of paint....the only legit paint seems to be a "Maaco" job done over the OG Grey...thin coat of primer and thin coat of yellow/tan....

But like I said, it would be tough to make look like a "preserved bus" like your PGSG Standard because of the idiotic paint jobs and random idiot body work...

I think I might best be served by just doing the necessary welding and body work then sand it down to the OG grey, prime and paint...

IDK...what are your thoughts? I really really like the "preservation" look...love the OG 50 year old look...but sometimes I think it might not be feasible. I thought I could strip away the primer and the black (both rattle can and be good to go with OG), but then taking off the lock on the gas lid revealed that the "yellow oxidized Maaco Grey" that I thought was OG was in fact a low budget spray job, that the OG Grey lies under 4 layers of paint...and then still, its not a very thick coat...and on top of that its been sanded and grinded all over randomly.... ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)

PLAN B!!!

I will take some Aircraft Paint Stripper to it...if it comes off "easier" I may attempt it....all over to see how bad it is, AND THEN REASSESS...if not....then ...onto PLAN C....a paint job at some point in the future....

Need to get ahold of Gerson to see where my panels are...


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Unread postPosted: Sat Feb 19, 2011 7:44 pm 
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Dan wrote:
tnc19 wrote:
BTW...DAN...I'm actually making my way thru your TS thread....actually there are alot of pics, initially i just scrolled through the last page then realized there were a bunch of pages...my bad....going back thru it now....start to finish...


Here goes:
Step 1) Strip your gas flap and hopefully find good OG paint underneath the respray. Try using chemical strippers like you get at Lowes. If it is too aggressive use Easy Off. Sometimes a combination works best. On the '67 I got, I used stripper on the respray which took it down to primer and then used Easy Off to remove the primer to expose the OG paint. Don't experiment with the gas flap. Wait to do that until you have the technique wired down because...
2)...take the cleaned up flap to Tri-City paints in Miramar and the paint code. Spend the extra $25 to have them color match the flap.
3) To blend yo have to wet sand the surrounding paint with 1000 grit wet to scuff it up. You then shoot the new paint overlapping the old scuffed paint. After it dries you sand the whole area with 1000 grit, then 1500 then 2000 then buff. Do not get too aggressive with the old paint as you can burn through it easily. It should then blend in nicely. If the new paint is too shiney then you can dull it down by scuffing it with 2000 or even 1500.


Dan, so I went to get the paint from Tricity, in El Cajon. I told The guy at the counter I wanted the paint to match the gas flap. He said "the NEW paint won't match because the paint flap is dulled, and the new paint will be shiny." I told him how you blended it by sanding it, he said that it probably wouldn't match well.

Ok...so here is what I'm wondering about.
1. Your PGSG looks awesome. I like that look. After you sanded, sprayed paint, then sanded again to blend together new and old.....did you "buff" out ALL the paint over the whole bus or what? Clear coat the whole bus? The reason why I ask, is that your paint does like shiny, like it has that clean sheen look. Fresh look. Your paint doesn't look "dull".

2. I've stripped the paint down to the OG in a small section. The paint is dull and will have the dull look and feel. Will I be able in your estimation to attain that blended look like you have with dull and oxidized paint?

3. Do you have any pics of the bus as you picked it up that show the condition of the paint....to compare to the pics you posted as a finished product?


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Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 7:34 am 
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tnc19 wrote:
Dan wrote:
tnc19 wrote:
BTW...DAN...I'm actually making my way thru your TS thread....actually there are alot of pics, initially i just scrolled through the last page then realized there were a bunch of pages...my bad....going back thru it now....start to finish...


Here goes:
Step 1) Strip your gas flap and hopefully find good OG paint underneath the respray. Try using chemical strippers like you get at Lowes. If it is too aggressive use Easy Off. Sometimes a combination works best. On the '67 I got, I used stripper on the respray which took it down to primer and then used Easy Off to remove the primer to expose the OG paint. Don't experiment with the gas flap. Wait to do that until you have the technique wired down because...
2)...take the cleaned up flap to Tri-City paints in Miramar and the paint code. Spend the extra $25 to have them color match the flap.
3) To blend yo have to wet sand the surrounding paint with 1000 grit wet to scuff it up. You then shoot the new paint overlapping the old scuffed paint. After it dries you sand the whole area with 1000 grit, then 1500 then 2000 then buff. Do not get too aggressive with the old paint as you can burn through it easily. It should then blend in nicely. If the new paint is too shiney then you can dull it down by scuffing it with 2000 or even 1500.


Dan, so I went to get the paint from Tricity, in El Cajon. I told The guy at the counter I wanted the paint to match the gas flap. He said "the NEW paint won't match because the paint flap is dulled, and the new paint will be shiny." I told him how you blended it by sanding it, he said that it probably wouldn't match well.

Ok...so here is what I'm wondering about.
1. Your PGSG looks awesome. I like that look. After you sanded, sprayed paint, then sanded again to blend together new and old.....did you "buff" out ALL the paint over the whole bus or what? Clear coat the whole bus? The reason why I ask, is that your paint does like shiny, like it has that clean sheen look. Fresh look. Your paint doesn't look "dull".

2. I've stripped the paint down to the OG in a small section. The paint is dull and will have the dull look and feel. Will I be able in your estimation to attain that blended look like you have with dull and oxidized paint?

3. Do you have any pics of the bus as you picked it up that show the condition of the paint....to compare to the pics you posted as a finished product?


I think you should have driven the extra miles to the Tri city in Miramar, but what's done is done.
1) The flap you took in, did you color sand it GENTLY 1500 then 2000 then buff it out? Before you took it to Tri City? The finish you get on the flap is what you will want on the whole bus.
2) It really depends how much paint is on there. If it is thick you can cut down to nicer paint with sanding and buffing. If it is thin and barely covering the primer then no, you will simply remove what's left by sanding, even buffing if it too thin, like on the left side of my camper, I take paint off if I wax the damn thing.
3) Give me a call 619 632-8762. I can come take a look today. I am going out to Santee to look at some parts so I can swing by.


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Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:24 am 
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Dan wrote:
tnc19 wrote:
Dan wrote:
tnc19 wrote:
BTW...DAN...I'm actually making my way thru your TS thread....actually there are alot of pics, initially i just scrolled through the last page then realized there were a bunch of pages...my bad....going back thru it now....start to finish...


Here goes:
Step 1) Strip your gas flap and hopefully find good OG paint underneath the respray. Try using chemical strippers like you get at Lowes. If it is too aggressive use Easy Off. Sometimes a combination works best. On the '67 I got, I used stripper on the respray which took it down to primer and then used Easy Off to remove the primer to expose the OG paint. Don't experiment with the gas flap. Wait to do that until you have the technique wired down because...
2)...take the cleaned up flap to Tri-City paints in Miramar and the paint code. Spend the extra $25 to have them color match the flap.
3) To blend yo have to wet sand the surrounding paint with 1000 grit wet to scuff it up. You then shoot the new paint overlapping the old scuffed paint. After it dries you sand the whole area with 1000 grit, then 1500 then 2000 then buff. Do not get too aggressive with the old paint as you can burn through it easily. It should then blend in nicely. If the new paint is too shiney then you can dull it down by scuffing it with 2000 or even 1500.


Dan, so I went to get the paint from Tricity, in El Cajon. I told The guy at the counter I wanted the paint to match the gas flap. He said "the NEW paint won't match because the paint flap is dulled, and the new paint will be shiny." I told him how you blended it by sanding it, he said that it probably wouldn't match well.

Ok...so here is what I'm wondering about.
1. Your PGSG looks awesome. I like that look. After you sanded, sprayed paint, then sanded again to blend together new and old.....did you "buff" out ALL the paint over the whole bus or what? Clear coat the whole bus? The reason why I ask, is that your paint does like shiny, like it has that clean sheen look. Fresh look. Your paint doesn't look "dull".

2. I've stripped the paint down to the OG in a small section. The paint is dull and will have the dull look and feel. Will I be able in your estimation to attain that blended look like you have with dull and oxidized paint?

3. Do you have any pics of the bus as you picked it up that show the condition of the paint....to compare to the pics you posted as a finished product?


I think you should have driven the extra miles to the Tri city in Miramar, but what's done is done.
1) The flap you took in, did you color sand it GENTLY 1500 then 2000 then buff it out? Before you took it to Tri City? The finish you get on the flap is what you will want on the whole bus.
2) It really depends how much paint is on there. If it is thick you can cut down to nicer paint with sanding and buffing. If it is thin and barely covering the primer then no, you will simply remove what's left by sanding, even buffing if it too thin, like on the left side of my camper, I take paint off if I wax the damn thing.
3) Give me a call 619 632-8762. I can come take a look today. I am going out to Santee to look at some parts so I can swing by.


i called you...
i think i'm ok still....i haven't touched the paint yet, so i can still go to miramar and have them match it using what they mixed in el cajon. right now i just have L345, light grey....but i'm wondering about the time/energy/$ equation in dealing with the OG or just fixing the metal piece work and then reshooting the whole thing....


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Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 11:11 am 
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Fix it and respray it! :neutral:

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Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 2:38 pm 
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pyrOman wrote:
Fix it and respray it! :neutral:


Hmmm....that what I figured you might weigh in at..... #-o .... :lol:


Dan came over to check it out....he thinks there is definitely good paint under the BS coats the PO threw on there. So I think after I get it on and running...then we will get on that paint issue....NO respray!!!....It will be Mission: OG paint recovery .....

Rain??????? ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)


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Unread postPosted: Sun Feb 20, 2011 4:41 pm 
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Good luck! :cool:

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